Agency Power AFI 650 Turbo Kit Porsche 996TT Instructions

So you just received the best turbo upgrade kit on the market for your 2001-2005 Porsche 996 Turbo. The Agency Power AFI turbo kit is a very easy installation that can be done by an experienced enthusiast or a professional workshop. Please follow the below instruction tips to help your project go smoothly. If you have any questions, feel free and contact us any time by phone or email.

Kit Contents:

• 2 Garrett Ball Bearing GT2860rs Turbo Chargers
• 2 Tial 44mm External Wastegates with V-Band Clamps and Fittings
• 1 left and 1 right AFI Stainless Steel Header with Dump Tube
• 2 CNC Machined Coated Steel Exhaust Adapters for Turbo to Exhaust
• 2 CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Tanks with Drain Plugs and Gaskets
• 2 AP Black Silicone Couplers 3 - 2.5 inch with 4 T-Bolt Clamps
• 2 4Bolt Header to Turbo Steel Flanges
• Water Line kit including: 4 High Temp Hoses, Banjo Bolts, Banjo Fittings, 2 CNC Aluminum Connectors, 2 Connection T, 1 90 Degree T
• Oil Line Kit including: 2 Steel Braided Oil Lines, 2 Check Valves, 2 Engine Block to Oil Line Fittings
• Hardware Kit for Mounting Turbo to Header and Turbo to Exhaust Adapter
• Softronic ECU Flash Cable
• 5 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator

Step 1 - Your first step is to start in the engine bay by removing the factory air box. By removing the box, this allows you to reach the engine block to put in the fittings for the oil lines. To remove the intake, unplug the MAF sensor, loosen the worm clamp, and then remove the chassis bolt by the trunk latch. Pull up from the passenger side of the intake and rotate it counter clockwise and pull it out. If you do not already have installed the upgraded Diverter Valves, F-Hose, and Boost Hoses, now is a good time to do so.

Step 2 - Lift the car up in the air. Remove the drank plug from each oil sump and from your main oil drain and drain the oil. Now is the best time for an oil change. While the oil is draining, if you do not have an aftermarket exhaust yet, remove the stock one for install. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, leave it hanging and unbolt the exhaust from the factory turbo.

Step 3 - Time to pull off the factory turbo and headers. First, loosen the worm clamp that holds the intercooler hose to the inlet side of the turbo. Next loosen the worm clamp that holds the boost hose on to the compressor inlet of the turbo. From there you will want disconnect the oil return line that goes into the oil sump. You will also need to disconnect the top oil line on the turbo to block and remove. Unbolt the header from the block and the turbo and then you can remove the factory header off the car. There is a long green bracket that is bolted to the turbo, unbolt the bracket and then cut it off as high up as you can. This bracket is not needed.

Step 4 - Now that both headers and turbo parts are removed, on the driver side of the car you want to put the oil fitting in the block. The fitting which connects to the steel braided line is easily accessible. The fitting on the passenger side of the car is accessible on the top right of the motor.

Step 5 - A real quick step while the passenger side turbo is off is to do the Fuel Pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is held in place a couple inches above where the spark plugs are. With the turbo out of the way, a 6 inch extension can reach. Unbolt the factory and disconnect the vacuum line. Put the new 5.0Bar in place.

Step 6 - Once the oil fitting is on, connect the one side of the steel braided oil line to it securely. You will next hang the turbo and the header on the car. Before hanging, assemble the parts appropriately to the turbo. Oil can with gasket and drain plug, check valve with fitting to connect to oil line, water line fittings, and exhaust adaptor. It is much harder to work on the turbo once it is mounted. Leave the compressor housing to exhaust housing bolts loose so you can clock the turbo correctly. Then tighten them down once installed.

Step 7 - Now you are almost done. Finish up a couple basics. Connect the lower boost hoses to the end of the turbo and secure in place with stock clamp. Next put the 3 - 2.5 inch coupler on the front of the turbo and secure with T-Bolt clamp and connect to the intercooler hose and secure that side with the T-Bolt clamp.

Step 8 - Go through all your bolts and clamps and make sure everything is tight and secure. Once that is complete, it is time to run the water lines. There are 4 lines. The lines T into one of the major water lines near the rear driver side of the engine and then return into a main waterline just in front of the driver side rear axle. The water lines will connect via Banjo and Banjo bolt to the turbo. To tap into the major water hoses, these will need to be cut. Obviously you will lose ALL your coolant so you will need to refill it. See pictures for proper routing.

Step 9 - The next step is to attach your exhaust system to the provided CNC machined exhaust adapters already on the turbo. Once this is connected, recheck all your hardware, fittings, and lines for tightness to ensure there are no leaks.

Step 10 - Because the 650 turbo kit uses external wastegates, it is required to run an external boost controller as the factory boost solenoid cannot control external wastegates. You can use a Manual Boost Controller or the highly recommended Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller. You will have to disconnect the factory solenoid and make sure all vacuum lines are plugged. Depending on your boost controller you purchase, follow the instructions for installation on an externally wastegated car. Once the lines have been run and you mount the new boost controller solenoid, you can reinstall your factory or aftermarket air box.

Step 11 - With everything back together and installed, you will need to refill your cars fluids. Make sure you run the proper synthetic motor oil and engine coolant. The motor takes about 8 quarts, but put in 7 to start and then slowly fill up from there to check oil level once car is warmed up. Over filling the oil can cause to much oil pressure and the oil will then find a way out, generally past the turbo seals. Once you put coolant in the car, make sure you have no leaks from the fittings. Now you should have a completed installed 650 turbo kit.

Step 12 - One of the last steps is to load your new ECU Map on the car. Because the car is running bigger turbos, different boost, and using more fuel, a remap is required. Connect the included Softronic ECU cable to your windows based Laptop and follow the instructions as listed here - http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/pages.php?cID=10&pID=45.  Once you have downloaded your stock file and then loaded it to the Softronic server, depending on the time of day, they will be able to send you a new file back to load within a couple of hours. Once this file is loaded, fire up the car...

Step 13 - With no leaks or any issues, your 650 kit is almost done! Set your boost controller to run about 1.2bar or 17psi of boost. If you are running 91 or 93 octane, this is best and safest. If you are running race gas, you can safely run 1.3 bar or 18psi. If you are on a dyno, give your car some test runs. Remember to data log your car and use a wide band AFR meter as well. If you are not on a dyno, go drive your car. Look and listen for any signs of smoke, engine knock, oil leaking, etc. It is always good to be aware of these things when doing a big project. You are now complete and ready to rock and roll!