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East Coast Regional Scene for the East Coast US States.

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Old 12-30-2004, 05:29 PM   #586
silverf4turbo
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Manny heres the directions he gave me with the leveler kit, I can do friday or saturday or pretty much any time unless something else is going on since I'm on break until Feb so just let me know

Theres a picture on the second page but I don't have my scanner available so I just did my best to describe where the wires go...

________________________________________ ______


Installation of STi Leveling Harness

1. The easiest thing to do is remove headlamps -- remove grille by pressing down on the plastic locking tabs in grille (three across top, one each on bottom corners), removing plastic pushg fasteners on grille side pieces (three per side), remove headlamps (three bolts per side), remove headlamp connectors.

2. Run long end of connector harness with black plug on end from near battery to the right side of auto. I chose to go through the foam rubber between rad and rad support, along bottom of rad, and in through foam rubber between rad and rad support on right side of car.

3. Run short end of harness with black plug on end to left side headlamp.

4. Fasten all connectors FIRMLY to headlamps, replace headlamps, grille side pieces and grille in reverse order from above. Use a hook to gently pull up locking tabs on grille -- grille will not be secure without this.

5. Run wire along frame rail on left side of car to rubber plug on firewall above two heater hose connections. Pierce rubber plug in X shape, push circuit adder and ground wire in first, then GENTLY push from engine compartment/pull from passenger compartment, untill harness is in the car, and there is enough cable length to reach the knee panel where the leveling switch would go. The coloured tape on the harness is an approximate guide to how far the harness should go into the car. It is 23 inches away from the terminal end of the cable. Remove the coloured tape when near the firewall grommet hole, unless you choose to have coloured tape on the harness.

6. Remove the lower dash by driver's knee. With door open, remove plastic screw and facing from the left side of lower dash, remove two screws (one near hood release, the other near lower right edge of driver's side lower dash). There are 2 clips holding it in place.

7. Remove plastic cover for switch (little one of the four in the switch array by driver's left knee).

8. Remove fuse for tail/clearance lights (fuse number five, second from right end, top row on my 2003), and set fuse aside for step 10.

9. Run harness from through firewall, above steering column to the vicinity of the fuse block.

10. Install switch in hole, and fasten terminals to switch according to the schematic and picture in Appendix A

11. Install fuse removed in step 7 in open circuit of circuit adder. Install circuit adder in tail/clearance light fuse position (second last one on right side, top row on my 2003)

12. Reinstall driver's lower dash by pressing lower dash clips into appropriate holes in upper dash, replacing two screws and the plastic trip screw.

13. Remove nut on lower part of steering column, install the ground lug on the stud and reinstall nut.

14. Test by turning car on, turning headlamps on, and adjusting level of headlamps by varying switch position.

15. Use ty-wraps to secure the harness in position near headlamps, along fraim rail, and wherever else you may see fit to protect it from damage or abrasion or heat.

16. Enjoy.



APPENDIX A - EDM STi Leveling Harness Switch Wiring

Subaru uses a switch with 8 pin locations but 2 of the "pins" are plastic and unused. To be consistent with Subaru's wiring, all 8 locations are accounted for.

The connections as shown in the picture are:
PIN 1 : Dummy, no connection
PIN 2 : 12V Red from circuit adder in place of tail/clearance lights fuse
PIN 3 : switch position 2 Yellow
PIN 4 : switch position 3 Green

PIN 5 : Dummy, no connection
PIN 6 : switch position 1 Blue or Brown
PIN 7 : switch position 0 White
PIN 8 : "illumination" Ground Black (from Or/W, or from supplied lug fastened to chassis bolt)



(my best attempt at describing the picture)

rear of leveler switch where you stick the wires in:
(top)
[ PIN 8 | PIN 4 ]
[ PIN 7 | PIN 3 ]
[ PIN 6 | PIN 2 ]
[ PIN 5 | PIN 1 ] << blank/plastic dummy pins
(bottom)

Last edited by silverf4turbo : 12-30-2004 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 05:58 PM   #587
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HOLY long post Batman! Thanks ahead of time for the help manny. I'll let you know on a date. I'm ordering the last little things for the stereo install tonight so you can give me an extra set of hands with if your up for it. Thanks again.
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:49 PM   #588
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Silver I think it can wait until Jan 7th weekend because I don't want you to worry about this on a holiday weekend man. Incase you have plans or what have you.
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Goose I will give you a hand whenever man just let me know the day(s).
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Old 01-02-2005, 02:25 PM   #589
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Well i changed plans guys so im gonna be using my HKS downpipe so i can run Ultimate-Racings externally gated up-pipe with a tial 38mm wastegate. That means i have a brand new Helix downpipe for sale. Wanted to offer it to you guys first as we could meet up if someone wants it. Let me know if your interested.
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Old 01-02-2005, 05:11 PM   #590
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Memphis I am good with my D/P man but thanks anyways.
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Goose let me know when you get your lights and stereo stuff so we can meet up and get'r done.
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Old 01-02-2005, 06:52 PM   #591
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Goose!!!! This coming weekend I hear there is going to be another Solo II at Ripken Stadium.
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http://www.phillyscca.com/regional_schedule.htm
.
You planning on going to it?
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Also I found our results on the Runs we had see lynk below. I went off course Twice you only went off once.

http://www.subaruchallenge.com/SE1/Class%20Results.htm
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Old 01-02-2005, 10:32 PM   #592
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Hey guys im starting to look into internal parts for my STI since i plan on adding a bigger turbo. I know some people are running serious power through the stock internals but i dont consider reliable lasting a year. So what brand internals would you guys suggest? What all would you suggest upgrading? I know forged pistons are a must but what else would you suggest to make this a reliable daily driver? Im looking at making somewhere around 350-400whp.
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Old 01-02-2005, 10:51 PM   #593
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JUN internals are supposed to be great
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Old 01-03-2005, 09:36 AM   #594
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JUN im sure there probably overpriced but i guess when it comes to your motor who cares.
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2004 STi

TURBO XS RFL BOV
Perrin Crank Pulley
Perrin Turbo Inlet Pipe
Perrin Short Ram Intake
Perrin Oil Catch Can
Perrin Downpipe (catless)
Perrin Rear Sway Bar
Agency Power Short Shifter w/ Kartboy Bushings
HKS Carbon TI Catback
Turbo XS UTEC w/ remote map selector

**Tune coming soon, ill keep you guys posted with my dyno results
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Old 01-03-2005, 09:57 AM   #595
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So anyone in the need of a new Helix catless downpipe?
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Old 01-03-2005, 11:40 AM   #596
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JUN is awesome, but if you only want 350-400 at the wheels then the JUN would be overkill. All you need is a v7 or v8 motor with a good turbo and an even better tune.
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Old 01-03-2005, 01:27 PM   #597
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Hey stealth, how much power do you think i could get out of a VF39 thats been worked on by deadbolt? I can get a great deal on a 2nd VF39 for my STI. But i do wanna be somewhere near 350 whp.
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Old 01-03-2005, 01:34 PM   #598
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Probably not too much more than 300 at the wheels. Im no expert but thats what i would guess.
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Old 01-03-2005, 01:45 PM   #599
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That should be a solid 12 sec car shouldnt it? If it matters went 13.3 bone stock.
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:16 PM   #600
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a stock STi with just a "deadbolted" vf39 could run high 12's i think. Are you running any type of ECU? utec,ecutek...
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